.
..
By Bruce Habel
.
One of the most distinguishing features of classic Cougars has to be the sequential turn signals, but when they fail to work properly, troubleshooting can be difficult because the design changed every year for the first couple of years.  The easy way to troubleshoot a system is to swap in known good components until you find the culprit.  Unfortunately, not many people have a spare working system just hanging around.  For the 99% of folks without a spare system handy, visit Vic Yarberry’s site at:

http://www.thuntek.net/cougars_unlimited/

Vic has troubleshooting guides posted online and replacement parts for practically everything within the turn signal circuits.  Once you figure out what has gone wrong it is a relatively simple job swapping the replacement part for the old part.  This isn’t a big deal for most of the components; it takes five or ten minutes at most to make the swap. 

The exception is the turn signal switch because changing the turn signal switch requires removing the steering wheel.  Plan on between three to five hours to make the swap.  An assistant also comes in handy, but isn’t required.  This article covers turn signal switches for 1967 to 1970 Cougars without tilt columns.  The process should be similar for the 1971-73 cars, but tilt columns are a different beast entirely.  Refer to the shop manual for tilt column equipped cars because there are some special steps involved.  While the methods here should work for most cars, review the shop manual for instructions that are more detailed for your application.

TOOLS:

.
phillips screwdriver permanent marker
fine slot screwdriver small plastic bag
15/16" wrench or socket electrical tape
1/2" wrench safety glasses
1/4" wrench steering wheel puller
.
Start by parking the car with the steering wheel level (tires pointed straight ahead) and disconnect the battery.  Remove the steering column trim cover’s four Phillips screws (two at the top and two at the bottom).  The trim piece should fall out.

If the trim piece doesn’t fall loose freely, do not pull on it because you could break the upper retaining tabs.  Instead, loosen the two remaining bolts in the trim piece under the instrument cluster.  This will provide enough room for the column trim to come free without damaging it.  Put the column cover in the back seat to keep it out of harm’s way.  Leave the rubber column grommet in place.  It doesn’t hurt to remove it; there just isn’t any compelling reason to do so.

.
The column trim cover, the rubber column grommet, and the metal wire cover are shown here.
.
On the bottom of the steering column is a metal wire cover.  This cover just clips in. Grab the end closest to the brake pedal and pull down.  Once it comes unclipped, move the end toward a door until the opposite end slides free.  This end has two tabs on it so it cannot be removed unless it is turned.  Put metal wire cover with the column cover. 

Remove the three Phillips screws holding the steering wheel pad to the steering wheel.  They are located on the back of the wheel, a little past the center of each spoke.  Put these screws in a bag separate from the trim screws if you are not sure you can differentiate them later.  Pull the pad away from the wheel and put it in the back seat. 

Use the 15/16" wrench or socket to remove the large nut at the center of the steering wheel.  An assistant comes in handy here by holding the wheel in place while you remove the nut.  Don’t let the wrench come in contact with the spokes. The plastic cover on the spokes can be chipped or broken if the wrench or ratchet hits a spoke too hard.

After removing the nut, mark the steering shaft and steering wheel with a permanent marker.  These reference marks are to line up the steering wheel in case the shaft moves while removing the turn signal switch. 

Use the steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel.  If you don’t have a steering wheel puller you can make one out of a 1”x 3” section of 3/16” steel or angle iron.  Drill two 3/8" holes 1-3/8" apart.  Take two fine threaded 1/2" bolts 1-3/4" long and insert them n the holes.  Longer bolts can be used by adding washers in as shims.  Alternate tightening each bolt until the steering wheel pulls free of the shaft.  Don’t even think about using a hammer to remove the steering wheel.  You will damage the breakaway mounts on the column and in the shaft.

.
Most parts stores have tool rental programs where you can rent a steering wheel puller.  Cost is usually zero once you return the tool and pick up your deposit.  Put a little oil like 3in1 household oil on the bolt threads to prevent seizing.
.
Once the steering wheel is off, use the 1/4" wrench, a small adjustable crescent wrench, or pliers with the jaws covered with tape to remove the turn signal lever.  The 1/4" wrench is not a perfect fit but it will work.  Reach under the dash and disconnect the wires from the main harness.  The connector from the main wiring harness has a locking tab on each side, make sure you squeeze them and disconnect the hooks completely before pulling the connectors apart.  If the turn signal switch wires are taped to the column, remove the tape.

At this point, compare the wires to the appropriate diagram linked below.  Ensure the wires in your turn signal switch match the diagram.  If they do not, modify the diagram so it matches the wiring codes of your turn signal switch.  You may find it helpful to print a hard copy the diagram for your application.

WIRING DIAGRAMS:

The connector and the layout of the wires vary by year.  Aftermarket switches may have minor differences in wiring colors.  Check closely for differences before removing any wires from the connector.  Check the wires against both connectors if there are any differences and make notes.  These notes are very important when troubleshooting problems because once the wires are removed from the connector the notes are all that’s left of the original setup. 

Next, remove the connector on the turn signal switch.  To remove a wire from the connector, push the wire up into the connector as far as it will go, then push the small screwdriver (or a piece of stiff safety wire) in from the opposite side.  The screwdriver goes between the metal pin and the plastic housing.

.
The screwdriver should be inserted into the connector on the side opposite the slot in the pin.  Push the blade of the screwdriver flush against the pin, then pull the wire out.  The blade must go completely flush against the pin to push the retaining clip built into the pin inward far enough so that it will slide out of the connector.  Repeat this procedure until all the pins and wires are freed from the connector.  Once the connector is removed, slide the plastic wire cover off the wires.
.
Next, remove the three Phillips screws holding the switch in place and remove the turn signal switch.  Once they are removed, the switch will slide free.  It takes a little wiggling to get the switch unstuck but it will slide out easily once it starts to move.  Also, note the tabs at the top and bottom.  These tabs are used by the turn signal canceling cam to turn off the signal.  If your turn signal doesn’t turn off in one direction, one of these tabs has broken off.
.
Left: Turn signal switch in place.  Right: Turn signal switch.
.
Make sure the cover for the emergency flasher button isn’t lost when you remove the switch, as it has to be reused with the new switch.  Compare the new switch to the old one. They should be identical.  The wire color codes may not be exactly the same shade, but otherwise they will match.

If the new switch doesn’t have a short plastic wire cover at the top, remove the cover from old switch harness and put it on the new harness.  Tape the ends of the wires together with electrical tape so they form a flat bundle just like the rest of the harness.

Now slide the new wires back into the column, making sure the yellow wire is on the left side.  (For 1967 switches the yellow wire should be in the center of the pack.)  Taping the wires into a flat bundle, as described above, keeps them from being twisted in the column, which can damage the wires and the switch.

Put the emergency switch cover on the emergency flasher button before sliding the turn signal switch in place.  Install the three Phillips screws to hold the switch in place.

Slide the old long plastic connector on over the wires if it doesn’t already have one, remove the tape and put the wires in the connector housing following the wiring diagram.  Give each wire a tug to ensure it is firmly seated.  If a wire pulls out, check the pin to ensure the retaining tang is pushed outward and not flush against the body of the pin.  If it is, put the retaining tang out with the screwdriver, then slide the pin back into the hole until the retaining pin locks it in place. 

Plug the turn signal switch back into the main harness.  Compare the wires on each side of the connector to ensure they match.  Next, screw in the turn signal lever and reconnect the battery.

Start the vehicle and check the lights.  It’s important to start the car as a low battery may keep the turn signals from operating properly.  Check the emergency flasher also.  Use a screwdriver or a short piece of scrap wire to connect the two horn pins.

If everything works properly, it’s time to finish putting the car together.  If not, recheck the wiring to ensure all the pins are fully seated and mated to a wire with a matching color code.

Turn the engine off and disconnect the battery again.  Take the metal wire cover and insert the tabs into the column at a 45-degree angle.  Turn the cover until it is parallel with the column, then slide the cover backwards until the retaining clips line up in the holes.  Push the clips into the column to lock the cover in place.

Check the wires protruding from the far end of the cover.  If they hang down and could possibly interfere with your foot getting to the brake pedal, tape the wires to the column.

Reinstall the rubber grommet that goes over the column, if you removed it earlier.  Install the plastic trim piece next.  Make sure the plastic trim piece slides into the rubber grommet before bolting the trim piece back on.

.
The two metal rings that make contact with the horn pins can be seen here along with the holes for the retaining screws.  Put a light coat of grease on the rings.  Dielectric grease is preferred, but wheel-bearing grease will work in a pinch.  More is not better here, just a light coat to keep the pins from wearing away.  Heavier coats will be wiped off by the pins and could gum up the switch.  Unlike dielectric grease, wheel-bearing grease can conduct electricity so definitely go lightly if you use wheel-bearing grease.
.
Line the mark on the steering wheel up with the mark on the steering shaft.  However, before you slide the steering wheel completely in place, line up the metal pin on the turn signal canceling cam with the groove in the steering wheel.  Most of the time the pin will fall into place on it’s own after a few turns but it’s better to line it up now than to have to remove the wheel again later if it doesn’t.

When the pin is in place and the marks line up, slide the wheel into place and screw the nut back on.  Tighten the nut until it will not turn any more.  (The torque range is 30-40lbs.)  Reinstall the steering wheel pad with the three Phillips screws.  Reconnect the battery and test the system with a short drive.  Make sure the turn signals cancel out when the wheel returns to center. 

That’s it!  Your Cougar can flash its sequential lights at the rest of the world again.

Thanks to Bob Arnold, Robert Craig, Ken Hayden, and Jamie Key for contributing to this article.

Happy motoring!
.

Photos by Donna & Bruce Habel
.
The techniques described in this article are, to the best of our knowledge, effective and safe when performed as described.  However, if you use them, you do so at your own risk.  TCCN and the volunteer staff of this web site assume no liability for any damages resulting from the use of the procedures and products described in this article.  Use caution whenever working with chemicals.  Always test any chemical product on a small area before proceeding with the job.  Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions when using any chemical product or tool.
.